Slim d’ Hermès watches give time a pleasing rhythm through simple and restrained line design. From the case design to the original time stamp font, this series sets a model for returning to the fine art of watchmaking. Hermès pays tribute to the dazzling fire enamel with this collection.
Slim d’ Hermès, Hermès pays tribute to the Daming fire enamel process with this series
Philippe Delhotal, creative director of Hermès horology, said: ‘This collection is an epoch-making work perfectly matched by the brand, the designer and the craftsman. The Slim d’Hermès watch uniquely blends contemporary and classic elegance shows the essence of the brand.’ Graphic design Perfectly and harmoniously integrated with watchmaking, pursuing pure aesthetics. The brand’s watchmaking expertise is fully reflected in the perfect combination of dial, case and self-made ultra-thin movement. The angled lugs and unique low-profile lines are accentuated by the slim and round case. This collection is the ultimate in simplicity, compatible with subtle restraint and visual balance. Slim d’ Hermès’original font is from Philippe Apeloig. It is the first time that a designer has designed a font for a watch, and it looks elegant on the open dial. Philippe Apeloig explains: ‘I start with the basic elements, just like a composer composes a symphony with seven notes and a staff. I take inspiration from human movements, explore motive of repetition and overlap, and explore the size and rhythm of lines. The dial numbers are concise and there are no extra elements, which meets the primary function of the watch to clearly display the time. The design of the time scale is like a geometric figure. It is a short stroke without any weight. It is like a rest on a musical score to enhance the characteristics of the melody. Part of the digital line is broken in the middle, which represents a paused space, which cleverly traces the rhythm of time.
The wide dial of the watch provides an ideal space for the outstanding craftsmanship and expertise of Hermes. Hermès combines the Slim d’ Hermès watch with the rare craftsmanship of the Grand Fire enamel, perfectly embodying a demanding yet meticulous attitude. The first stage of this process is to install two small ‘foot’ on the copper plate, so that the dial can be fixed on the movement. After placing the copper plate on a curved wooden support, the craftsman rubbed the copper sheet, compressing it, stiffening it, and closing it to a thickness of about 0.2 mm. During the process, the surface of the copper plate is made compact to avoid any cracks that may cause the enamel to be deformed due to distortion.
This is followed by the enamel coloring procedure. The enamel craftsman applies a special formula of highly volatile liquid on both sides of the copper plate, then sprinkles a thin layer of white enamel powder, then puts the copper plate in a kiln and fires at 830 ° C. The liquid and enamel powder put into the high-temperature kiln burns instantly, which explains why this technique is called ‘big fire’ (high temperature). The blazing fire lasted for several minutes, during which the enamel melted and fixed. When the craftsman thinks that the proper melting point has been reached, he must remove the copper plate from the kiln. At this time, the first layer of enamel is still transparent, air-containing and green (this is caused by the chemical reaction with copper). The artisan then repeats the same steps: enamel powder, dust removal and firing procedures five or six times until the enamel itself is perfectly white and smooth, showing gloss.
The Slim d’ Hermès watch combines the rare craftsmanship of the Great Fire Enamel
The enamel fired with ‘Bright Flame’ does not require surface polishing. The white big fire enamel dial is divided into three levels: the first layer is the outer hour number, the second layer is the central hour dial, and the third layer is the small second dial at six o’clock. The next step is to transfer the hour numbers, hour markers and brand logo on the white enamel dial: the craftsman pressed a piece of silicone pad coated with black enamel cream onto the smooth white enamel. The firing process again holds all elements in place. After so many firings, the dial may have some unevenness. At this time, the surface needs to be leveled with a piece of wood carbon. In the final stage, the craftsman needs to grind and cut the edges by hand, so that the periphery of the enamel-painted panel is smooth, and the shape is slightly curved. Each of the three parts of the Slim d’ Hermès watch dial is individually coated with enamel and trimmed according to the characteristics of the material, and finally welded. With years of accumulated experience, the craftsman skillfully completes every detail of each stage. It takes eight hours to complete the dial. Watchmakers or watchmakers used to apply the ‘big fire’ enamel technology to the dial. However, with the advent of other processes, this demanding technology is now invaluable. The ‘Big Fire’ enamel is of high quality and has a constant color saturation. The surface shows an organic and lively effect, which is highly recommended. The Slim d’ Hermès Grand Enamel watch is available in a rose gold case with a slim design and a matte cigar alligator strap. The straps are made in the Hermes Leather Workshop and are inspired by the brand’s tradition of making harnesses and leather goods. The Slim d’Hermès watch is equipped with the H1950 ultra-thin automatic movement, which can be seen through the crystal glass back; its movement is only 2.6 mm thick, and energy is stored by a precision micro-automatic winding. The power reserve is 42 hours , With hour, minute and small seconds display. The finished finishing of the various components, including hand-chammed splints, reflects the brand’s sincere respect for the watchmaking tradition. Like all Hermès movements, the H1950 movement is engraved with the ‘H’ letter pattern exclusively for Hermès.
Model: Hermes homemade H1950 ultra-thin self-winding movement
Diameter: 30 mm (13 1⁄4 lines)
Thickness: 2.6 mm
Power reserve: 42 hours
Vibration frequency: 21,600 times per hour / 3Hz
Gems: 29 stones
Retouching: pearl pattern polished substrate, hairline pattern polished and carved Hermes H letter bridge and automatic plate
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Features: Miniature automatic disk, bridge parts are processed by manual chamfering
Shape / size: round, diameter 39.5 mm
Material: 750 rose gold (about 33.8 grams)
Table mirror: anti-glare sapphire crystal and case back
Water resistance: 3 atmospheres
Lug width: 20 mm
Buckle: 17mm pin buckle, 750 rose gold (4.9g)
Strap: matte cigar alligator leather (MHA)
Dial: White large open flame enamel, 4N gold-plated rod-shaped hands, black enamel numerals and hour markers