In the watch world, there seems to be such a curse-once a brand has one or two extremely popular watch series, then the other series of this brand will be difficult to pay attention to Even when a brand new watch series is launched, it is often a flash in the pan. For Breguet, it seems that it has never been constrained by this curse. In the world’s top watch forest, few brands can be like Breguet, and the launch of each new model is amazing. The reason for this is that in addition to Breguet’s low-key style that has not always promoted hot products, I think it is because each Breguet watch series has its own distinct characteristics, and under fine taste, it is almost Each watch inherits the precious tradition and brainchild established by Master Breguet.
The 2015 that has just arrived is undoubtedly a significant year for Breguet. Breguet ushered in the 240th anniversary of the brand’s founding this year, and the brand’s Tradition series has just ushered in its 10th anniversary this year. For the Breguet, which has a cultural accumulation of nearly two and a half centuries, the handed down series is undoubtedly still a very young “new blood” in the brand. It was exactly ten years ago in 2005 that Breguet launched the now popular Breguet series, the 7027 watch, which is Breguet’s first wrist to show the mechanical structure of the movement’s base plate from the front. table.
Like many of Breguet’s classic collections, Breguet’s time-honored watch series has captured a lot of watch lovers and collectors with its stunning appearance. However, it does not seem to be consistent with Breguet men’s watches. The style-inspired series of watches is not surprising in Breguet’s watch series. The reason for this is that in addition to Breguet’s well-known coin-decorated case, welded straight lugs, hand-engraved dial, Breguet hands, and concealed signatures, all of Breguet’s iconic brand features are readily available. What’s more important is the historical connotation of the watch.
Few series of watches have such a deep and long history as the Breguet lineage. Like many of Breguet’s famous collections, the design inspiration of the Breguet series of watches is also derived from a classic designed by the brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Historical watch-No.960 pocket watch.
In 1802, Master Breguet delivered a pocket watch numbered 960 to the famous hydraulic engineer Augustin de Bétancourt. This pocket watch boldly displays the mechanical structure of the bridge, gears, escapement, barrel and other movement components usually installed under the base plate on the dial. The inner dial is located at 12 o’clock on the dial, and the hands are directly The power is transmitted by the barrel. The barrel in the center of the dial is clear at a glance. The balance wheel and the middle wheel are evenly arranged at 4 to 8 o’clock on the dial to form a beautiful arc with neat decorative details. The symmetrical structure of the slab bridge has strengthened the balance of visual effects of this pocket watch, so that this pocket watch has a rich visual effect without being messy at all, but reveals a unique elegance.
It is worth mentioning that the inconspicuous device carried at 9:30 in this pocket watch was designed by Master Breguet in 1790, and it is also one of the most important inventions in his life-to protect the pendulum. A ‘pare-chute’ timepiece shock absorber designed to protect wheels from shock. The impact of this invention on future generations is not far-reaching. It is the earliest shock absorber for timepieces, and it is also the ancestor of many shock absorbers today. Someone once said that the wrist is the most fragile and unsuitable wearing part for timepieces. It is not an exaggeration. In fact, no matter what form of portable timepiece is, it is fragile and easily damaged. The balance shaft can be said to be the most fragile part of the entire movement. If the balance is to swing freely, friction must be minimized, and then the durability must be compromised, but the balance shaft Usually it is very small, so even if the impact is not large, for a watch without shock protection, it is still very easy to cause damage or deformation of the balance bearing, and affect the frequency of balance vibration.
In fact, as early as the beginning of the history of watchmaking, people have generally recognized that vibrations can cause damage to timepieces. However, looking at the history of watchmaking, except for Master Breguet, before the First World War, the shockproof system was almost blank. However, the ‘parachute’ shock-absorbing device was not generally accepted, and even disappeared. It was not until Breguet’s newly-introduced series 7027 watch in 2005 that it again adopted this classic effective and excellent shock-proof system. To this day, this suspension can be said to have become one of the iconic characteristics of the Breguet series of watches.
The so-called inheritance by no means means adherence to the rules and rigidity, but to stand on the classics and innovate. Nothing is more valuable in Breguet’s heritage than innovation and invention, which is in line with modern Breguet’s philosophy, so Breguet has never lacked courage in innovation-inspired by history, but not because of it Imprisoned.
In terms of appearance, while inheriting the classic appearance elements of the No.960 pocket watch, the handed-down 7027 watch has added many more modern style adjustments and retouches. First, the ‘parachute’ suspension device was ‘zoomed in’ and adjusted from the 9:30 position of the dial to the 1 to 2 position. At the 10 to 11 position of the dial, a fan-shaped power reserve display was added as a function Symmetry, so that it does not affect the beauty and balance of the model, while further filling the gap on the dial. On this basis, the bridge, gears, escapement, barrel and other components presented on the dial have been simply adjusted in proportion and position, so that the balance of the dial layout has reached a nearly perfect vision effect.
Through advanced modern technology, the entire watch is also perfected in detail. The black plated 18K gold dial is exquisite in workmanship, and the floral Arabic numerals used in No.960 have also been replaced with Roman numerals, which is even more neoclassical. The clockwork box cover and gears are polished with snail spiral patterns, and the steel arms, levers and other parts are brushed and polished with rotating wheels. The chamfering and polishing of the movement parts are perfect. Every detail permeates Breguet’s watchmaking spirit.
The delicate sandblasting process on the splint is another iconic feature of the Breguet series. In the unparalleled index career of Master Breguet, most of the brass main plywood and plywood of the works have been sandblasted. The low-key and pure performance of the sandblasting process not only has a natural texture, but also perfectly realizes the mastery of Breguet The purpose of practical functions of oxidation and anti-corrosion exactly coincides with the needs of Master Bao Di who does not like artificial decoration. However, after the death of Master Baodi, in the past 200 years, with the continuous evolution of the watchmakers’ views and ideas, the sandblasting process adopted by Master Baodi has gradually been replaced by various retouches for aesthetic purposes. The Breguet series of watches not only revitalized this classic craft, but also replaced the method that used to rely on mercury evaporation in the past with a new sandblasting process, thereby making the sandblasting process on the splint more balanced and smooth. Go up one level.
The timeless series of watches perfectly combines the ultra-modern concept with tradition, which is another successful initiative of the Breguet brand to modernize historical models. This series once again reflects Breguet’s unique style and brand-new skills. The balance wheel in front of it suddenly runs under the support of a symmetrical bridge, and is even more eye-catching under the background of exquisite finishing … We can see that On the road of advancing with the times and pioneering innovation, it still maintains its purity and elegance as always.