Month: June 2019

Ferdinand Berthoud And Louis Moinet Are The Same As The Two Watchmakers

Historically, Ferdinand Berthoud and Louis Moinet are highly regarded watchmakers. On the surface, there are many things in common between the two. They are both watchmaking geniuses who once lived in the same era and achieved major innovations. But if we dig deeper, the similarities disappear and the differences appear.

Ferdinand Berthoud (left) and Louis Moinet (right)

   Berthoud and Moinet have many similarities, and exhaustive listing takes too long. The two have very similar careers, which at first glance can be confusing. Their lives are highly overlapping, with the former 1727–1807 and the latter 1768–1853. Berthoud was born in Neuchâtel, which is now home to Ateliers Louis Moinet. Both have traveled to various countries, Moinet’s footsteps in Italy, Switzerland and Paris, where he died. Berthoud also began his legendary career in Paris in 1745. They have reached the end of their lives. Berthoud is 80 years old and Moinet is 85 years old.
   With detailed contributions, Berthoud and Moinet both wrote innovative works that will have a significant impact on the future of watchmaking-Berthoud’s ‘Essai sur l’ horlogerie’ and Moinet’s ‘Traité d’horlogerie’. Beyond that, they all have wonderful connections with great men of their time. Berthoud knew Louis XV and Napoleon, and Moinet’s clients included Napoleon, Thomas Jefferson, and James Monroe.

By Louis Moinet

Intergenerational differences
   However, unlike Breguet and Arnold, Berthoud and Moinet have never worked directly together, and there is no evidence that they have ever met. Berthoud is 40 years older than Moinet and seems to be a forerunner in many ways, such as raising the accuracy of marine astronomical clocks to unprecedented levels of excellence.
   Moinet may have taken inspiration from Berthoud’s work, and extensive references can be seen in his work (before the full withdrawal). The rivalry between Moinet and Berthoud is implicit and has never been publicly claimed. Moinet wrote in his book: ‘Progress in horology means that Berthoud’s work is gradually outdated, and many of its parts are outdated, and our work will replace the books of Berthoud and previous authors.’

Longitude Clock, Ferdinand Berthoud, No. XXVIII, Paris, 1782-1783

Respected artist and watchmaker
   Other differences between the two are obvious. Moinet is a real artist. During his stay in Italy, he studied painting, sculpture and sculpture under the greatest masters of Rome. After returning to Paris, he taught at the prestigious Academy of Fine Arts. In addition, Moinet is equally well versed in astronomy, physics, and chemistry.
   In contrast, Berthoud is more like an expert, an outstanding figure in the field of horology, with a particular focus on marine astronomical clocks. Now when we mention Berthoud, the first thing that comes to mind is the marine astronomical clock. Berthoud’s dedicated focus has won many awards and titles: Fellow of the Royal Society (1764), Royal Watchmaker of the King (1770) and Member of the French Academy (1795).
   Berthoud worked hard to make his work better known. He authored several articles for the Diderot Encyclopedia, as well as a book entitled ‘The Art of Manipulating and Adjusting Clocks by Little Known Watches’, which was published in 1759. Berthoud is also one of the most prolific watch writers in history, and he has published more than 4,000 pages of papers.

Counter of Thirds

Occupation, or lifestyle
   At the same time, Berthoud was meticulous, registered inventions through official channels, and kept them at the Academy of Science, the predecessor of today’s patents. As a result, his hard work and innovative inventions were recognized by later generations, and more practically, the royal funds allowed him to continue working.
   On the other hand, Moinet is more focused on arts and crafts and has strong doubts about mass production of clocks. He condemned ‘several leaks of work by several large manufacturers and factories’ and considered ‘this is the death of art and artists’. Moinet’s eyes do not allow a grain of sand, against clock fashion, relying on machinery and not doing research: ‘At first glance, it may be confusing, but not always able to withstand the test of time.’ Moinet lives for art without any official Recognition of a seal, patent protection or other laws, it is still difficult to define his achievements effectively.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 Chronometer watch and ‘Montre Astronomique, No. 3.’ pocket watch, which was commissioned by Ferdinand Berthoud to Jean Martin (1806)

   Berthoud is well-planned and able to live on the royal timekeeping business income. Moinet was so destitute and desperate that he devoted all his personal wealth (and energy) to publishing ‘Traité d’ horlogerie’. Moinet’s reputation was not apparent when he died. It was not until 150 years later that when the Counter of Thirds was rediscovered and formally identified as the first chronograph in history (1816), his name came out of the shadow again. Fortunately, today, watchmaking companies have inherited the spiritual heritage of Berthoud and Moinet, and by introducing outstanding timepieces with both heritage and innovation, we have regained the glory of two watchmaking masters after more than 200 years.

Richard Mille Introduces The First Carbon Fiber Watch

RichardMille pioneered the application of NTPT® (thin-layer composite technology) carbon fiber material in the manufacture of watches and clocks. After several months of meticulous research and development, finally launched the first NTPT® carbon fiber case.

The NTPT® carbon fiber material was originally developed for the manufacture of racing yacht sails and quickly became a material not to be missed in sailing. This material significantly optimizes the endurance and lightness of yacht sails, and has become a necessary material for racing boats around the world. NTPT® carbon fiber material has become the benchmark for composite materials. In the past two seasons, it has been used to make the frame of a Formula One racing car. Palace.
NTPT® carbon fiber is special and produces a unique visual effect due to its regular wavy pattern. NTPT® carbon fiber material consists of multiple layers of parallel filaments, which are separated from carbon fibers. These thin layers not exceeding 30 microns are first immersed in a resin and then woven by a special machine. There is a 45 ° angle between the layers, creating a special visual effect similar to rare wood. After being heated to 120 ° with a pressure of 6 bar, the NTPT® carbon fiber material can be sent to Richard Mille’s watch case factory in Proart for CNC machining.

Compared with composite materials that have been considered to have excellent physical properties, the NTPT® carbon fiber material optimizes the occurrence of fracture stress by 25% and improves the appearance of micro-cracks by 200%. The NTPT® material completely protects the RMAC1 movement. The RMAC1 movement features a large date window at 12 o’clock, a month display at 4 o’clock, and a flyback timing function. The movement is made of titanium and has a dual barrel mechanism. It is wound by a variable geometry automatic disc with a power reserve of up to 55 hours. The new RM 011 Carbon NTPT® watch brings innovative and cutting-edge technical solutions to the world of modern watchmaking.

Audemars Piguet Launches New Royal Oak Offshore Diver Watch

Audemars Piguet’s new Royal Oak offshore diving watch is developed by the research and development department of Audemars Piguet Factory. It has a strong and powerful curve, which is refreshing and will undoubtedly show in the sports field. skill.

 This timepiece is specially designed for diving enthusiasts and those who need to deal with various extreme environments. The Royal Oak Offshore Dive Watch is sturdy and stable, with a water resistance of up to 300 meters. This further enhancement will ensure that the watch can meet the needs of underwater sports and ensure its reliable performance.
 Audemars Piguet launches new Royal Oak offshore 42mm dive watch

 This powerfully designed timepiece complies with the Swiss watch international standard NIHS92-11 (ISO6425) and is suitable for the deep sea and any extreme environment that does not allow the slightest error. This year’s new model will be made with dark black high-tech ceramics for the first time. Case, bezel and easy-to-operate crown. This avant-garde material has a hardness 7 times higher than that of stainless steel. Only diamonds can scratch, and special machines and tools equipped with diamond milling cutters can be used for processing. All parts of the case are polished and frosted. Because the material used is abrasion-resistant, the related processing is a technical challenge.

 This timepiece is reliable and practical. With its functionality as the primary goal, the designer made in-depth research on the applicability in the diving environment. In addition, in order to improve the readability in the deep black sea, the black dial’s traditional “Méga Tapisserie” oversized grid pattern is paired with orange fluorescent hands for the first time, and it is the same as the 12 on the diving scale on the inner dial of the rotating dial. The orange display area from 2 to 3 o’clock echoes. This brilliant color makes it easy for divers to read time information instantly.

 Audemars Piguet launches new Royal Oak offshore 42mm dive watch

 Setting a rotating device with a preset timing inside the case is technically more complicated than making an external unidirectional rotating bezel. This extremely important device has the advantage of reducing parallax errors, as well as protecting against shocks and erosion (protection from water, salt and sand). The watchmaker has specially developed an external waterproof crown mechanism, which can adjust the diving time display through the crown at 10 o’clock on the side of the case. This system has good safety, once the crown is tightened, the diving time can be prevented from being changed unintentionally.

 This model is also equipped with an innovative waterproof gasket, so if needed, the wearer can perform related operations underwater, including the winding crown is also equipped with the same waterproof gasket.

 In addition, this watch is also equipped with a central seconds hand, a date window at 3 o’clock, equipped with Calibre 3120 self-winding movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal of the titanium case back. This is the first time that the watch factory has a transparent bottom on a Royal Oak offshore diving watch. It shows a movement of 21K pure gold and a carefully crafted balance with a movement frequency of 21,600 times per hour. Waterproof depth.

 This ergonomic timepiece is powerful, clear, durable, and equipped with all major functions. The reason for matching the rubber strap and titanium pin buckle is that this simple and practical buckle can be adjusted appropriately at any time, whether it is directly worn or worn outside the diving suit, it can be worn appropriately.

Watches Description